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Casa Polanco Boutique Hotel

Golden ages

Prosperous Polanco

History is writ large in Casa Polanco Boutique Hotel, a bed and breakfast in one of Mexico City’s most monied neighbourhoods, set at the edge of the second largest park in the world. It’s part Spanish colonial mansion that’s housed aristocratic families since the 1940s, and part sleek modernist block built by architect Claudio Gantous over four years. Its whiplash era shifts are testament to the country’s pacy dynamism and an homage to Mexican craftsmanship – furthered by the love that’s been given to the interiors, from gently restored stucco ceilings and marble floors, to treasure-hunted antiques (the work of design team M+M), and statement pieces from innovative studios. And, in this best-of-both world, there are lingering drinks with leafy views, spa escapism and romance that spans the ages.

Planes

Mexico City Airport is the nearest international hub, just a 25-minute drive from the hotel. It’s well connected to both Americas and Europe with plenty of direct flights. Hotel staff can arrange transfers (around US$65 one-way).

Trains

There are two subway stations within walking distance of the hotel: Auditorio and Polanco, both on Line 7. From the airport, board at Terminal Aérea on Line 5, ride it one stop to Pantitlan on Line 9, then head west to reach Line 7.

Automobiles

Driving in Mexico City can be chaotic with a (sometimes very) fast and loose approach to the highway code, tiresome traffic jams and street vendors vying for your attention, but as long as you keep your wits about you it’s a definite possibility (or you can hire a driver to navigate the city for you). Most international visitors start their road trips in Mexico City, heading north to see the likes of San Miguel de Allende, or south to beach hop the Yucatán, so you’ll likely survive a city stay without a car. There's no private parking at the hotel, but plenty of available spaces in the surrounding streets.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

The hotel acts as more of a beauteous base from which to propel your adventures, but they can offer you a massage, call in a personal trainer or take part in mat Pilates, Yoga classes and Meditation sessions. Home to one of Mexico’s most expensive streets (the luxury-boutique-lined Presidente Masaryk Avenue) and one of the largest parks in the western hemisphere (the Bosque de Chapultepec), the Polanco neighbourhood is certainly one of CDMX’s most significant, attracting the city’s wealthiest and flocks of culture vultures. There’s much to grab your attention, but first, hit the line-up of designer labels along Presidente Masaryk Avenue if you have pesos to burn, or explore the – relatively – less expensive options at glamorous open-air mall Antara Polanco. Once you look the part then you’re all set to go promenading through Chapultepec Park (all 17,000 acres if you have the stamina…) There’s enough to do within its borders to distract you for days: see giant pandas at the zoo; trace the city’s history exploring the collections of exceedingly grand Chapultepec Castle (home to the National Museum of Cultures); chart eclipses on the famed Aztec Sun Stone, just one of the fascinating artefacts at the National Anthropology Museum; and see Mexico’s most profound modern artists on display at both the Rufino Tamayo Museum and the Modern Art Museum (which has amassed over 3,000 paintings). The latter has a selection of Frida Kahlo’s works, but you may prefer seeing them in the more personal setting of her peacock-blue home, in the Colonia del Carmen neighbourhood to the south. Just as colourful, with its planes of pink and orange, is architect Luis Barragán’s jawdropping futuristic casa on the southern border of Chapultepec. Parque Lincoln (opposite the hotel) doesn’t have as much going on, but its sculptures and graffiti scrawls, genteel lakes for toy-boat races and hugely popular playground make it worth wandering through. Soumaya Museum has a huge collection of pre-Hispanic and European treasures (notably a trove of Rodin works) for you to lay your eyes on, but the undulating building they’re housed in is an attraction in itself. Teatro Teicel has a programme of plays and musicals, the iconic Paseo de la Reforma will take you to the central Zócalo and surrounding monumental buildings if you walk its length. And, you’re just a short hop from the hipster havens of Roma and Condesa.

Casa Polanco Boutique Hotel

Address

Luis G Urbina 84 Col Polanco, CDMX, 11510