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Kyrimai Hotel

Frontier fortress

The mysterious Mani

If you’re ever wanted by Interpol and need to get away (we don’t need to know specifics), Kyrimai Hotel would do nicely. The simple life – sun, sea, souvlaki – awaits you at this rustic 19th century fortress turned delightful boutique hotel at the end of the wild Mani peninsula, encircled by cerulean sea and scrubby countryside. You could happily live out your outlaw days dining on the deliciously authentic Maniot cuisine, swimming languid laps in the bay-gazing pool and befriending the local fishermen. Just send us a cryptic postcard once in a while.

Planes

The closest airport is Kalamata, two and a half hours’ drive from the hotel. Outside of the summer season (May to October), you’ll need to fly into Athens, a four-hour drive away. The hotel can organise transfers – it’s €150 each way from Kalamata and €300 each way from Athens – but we recommend renting your own set of wheels so you’re free to roam.

Automobiles

The drive from Kalamata airport snakes through the hills, with the dramatic coastline on one side and the craggy countryside on the other, past fortress towns like Kardamyli and Areopolis. The traffic will start to thin when you pass the Caves of Diros – many tourists don’t go further than this – but your reward lies just a bit further down the peninsula. Once you're there, there's free parking a few minutes down the road.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Use your first day at Kyrimai to get adjusted to fishing-town time (hint: be cool as a calamari), moving from refreshing swims in the deep blue Maniot sea to a prone position on the stone jetty, then roll right on to a tsipouro-fueled lunch. To work up an appetite for dinner, Pilates, yoga and other fitness classes are available on request or, if you prefer to get more hands on, go backstage at the hotel’s award-winning restaurant and learn to make Hellenic hero dishes during an afternoon cooking class. The next day, up the tempo a touch with a guided hike or horseback riding in the countryside. Water babies can rent a boat to explore the coastline (boats are available for hire during July, August and September).

Next, it’s time to rev up the rental car and go a-venturin’. Cruise back up the coast to find the Caves of Diros, an enormous complex with staggering stalactites, best explored by boat with a tour guide (don’t forget to spout the tedious tidbit that ‘speleology’ is the correct term for the study of caves). Visit the abandoned village of Vatheia to see the typical Mani tower houses or the considerably more lively town of Areopoli where the restaurants specialise in suckling pig (the best is Barba Petros, owned by the same family since 1917 and just off the main square). 

If you’re searching for a sandy beach – the ones around Gerolimenas are stone and shingle – the best is Marmari, a twenty minute drive from the hotel. Make time for lunch at Marmari Paradise, a traditional taverna with pasta, seafood and sea views.

Kyrimai Hotel

Address

Mani, Gerolimenas, Peloponnese, 23071