
The Duncombe Arms
Tuck in(n)
Dinky Staffordshire Village
‘Pub grub’ scores a huge PR coup at the Duncombe Arms, the cosiest of historic Staffordshire inns, close to the Peak District. It lures in locals and bandwagon-jumpers, who want succulent farm-fresh meats, kitchen-garden vegetables and best-of-British cheese, with some finer twists (a grapefruit-spiked hollandaise there, some charred-lemon butter there, a raspberry soufflé with tarragon ice-cream to finish…). It’s an oenophile too, with an in-depth wine list and staff knowledge to match. But even if it’s a little haute under the collar, all countryside charms are there: woodsmoke-scented comfort, local ales on tap, warm greetings, refined-rustic rooms and the sweetest of cottages overlooking birdsong-soundtracked greenery.
Planes
The closest international hub is the East Midlands Airport, an hour’s drive away, which has direct links to major cities in the UK and a fair few in Europe. Birmingham and Manchester Airports have a wider reach and are both about a 90-minute drive away, and Luton is the closest serving London.
Trains
East Midlands Railway stop Uttoxeter is the closest train station, about a 15-minute drive away. To reach it from London St Pancras International, Liverpool Lime Street or Sheffield, change at Derby.
Automobiles
If you’re visiting to experience the Duncombe’s skillful cookery, with your only onward travel the waddle off to bed, then book a local taxi and don’t worry about driving. But, if you want to explore – even not much – further afield, a car will be very useful. There’s parking onsite (and at the Wootton Estate if you’re staying in the Garden Cottage), and the hotel has chargers for electric vehicles.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Teeny Staffordshire (edging in on Derbyshire) village Ellastone has a claim to fame: George Eliot modelled the setting for her novel Adam Bede on it, and local enthusiast Ed Barker arranges literary walks to various scenes from it (largely focused on Calwich Abbey). Otherwise, aside from the odd movie night and a clarinettist who moved into the old town hall and gives performances from their garage, you’ll find the Ellaston-ians in the Duncombe Arms. But, giants lay just beyond this sleepy hamlet – the Peak District National Park is a short drive north, one of England’s most green and pleasant stretches (all 500-odd square-metres of it), with deer-roamed heather-strewn moors, craggy tors, ancient woods, neolithic stone circles, and mountains and edges to conquer, plus some National Trust treasures: Winster Market House, Hardwick Hall, Kedleston Hall and the regal Lyme Park estate. The sprawling grounds and enormous mansion of Chatsworth House are within easy reach too. And, Duncombe’s owners have their own swathe of countryside you can tour for a small fee and at set times (after all, it is their home too); the Wootton Hall Estate is a ridiculously picturesque collection of a stream, forest, gardens (including a kitchen garden) and farmland (home to chickens, a cow and Sydney the sheep, who you’ll recognise from the painting on the pub’s dessert menu). Entry is £5 (or with the lunch menu at the pub), and you can visit over a few months a year during spring and autumn, between 10am and 4.30pm, Monday to Friday (you'll get a map too). Alton Towers may be monumental in a different way…but it’s top of its game for thrills and chills, and any kids you’re bringing along will welcome the break from rambling and antique houses. Meets at Uttoxeter Racecourse, motorcycle track days at Darley Moor Sports Centre, or watersports at Carsington Reserve will also get your adrenaline going. But if it’s the birdsong-pierced peace you came for, bike or fish by the Dove River (said to have inspired Handel’s Water Music), take a gentle day of antique-hunting in market town Ashbourne, then play a board game by the fire when you’re back in the Duncombe’s warm embrace.




















