
Palazzo Maresgallo
Night at the museo
Duomo’s doorstep
Aristocratic by name, artistic by nature, Palazzo Maresgallo is a grand, gallery-style stay in the heart of Lecce. There’s so much to feast your eyes on (sculptural furniture, hand-painted frescoes, and photographic exhibitions are just part of the picture) you’ll almost wish you had an audio guide to wander the 16th century halls – and this is before you’ve seen your individually decorated suite, which will reframe your idea of how ancient rooms can be given an artful update. Every stone-walled inch has been carefully curated by a Parisian architect and his art-collecting wife, with Lecce’s masterpieces (the Duomo and Roman amphitheatre, for starters) to marvel at from the rooftop terrace and outdoor pool.
Planes
Brindisi is the closest international airport, just 40 minutes by car. The hotel can help organise transfers for €100, as well as to and from Bari airport for €200, just under two hours’ drive (for up to four passengers). If you’re travelling from the UK, there are more direct flights into Rome or Milan.
Trains
The hotel is a 10-minute walk from Lecce’s station, and there are usually taxis on stand-by (for around €15 one-way). Take Trenitalia’s direct, high-speed Frecce line from larger cities like Rome, and arrive in Lecce in just over five hours.
Automobiles
Charming yet compact, Lecce is most mesmerising on foot, but a set of wheels will come in handy if this is part of a wider Italian itinerary. There’s no onsite parking at the hotel, but the staff can direct you to a few secret spots around town (starting from around €20 a day).
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
There’s plenty to draw the eye within Palazzo Maresgallo’s art-strewn walls, including an exhibition of striking images by photographer Uli Weber in the halls of the piano nobile. Step outside onto the Old Town streets and you almost immediately come face to façade with Lecce’s cathedral on the picturesque Piazza del Duomo, where ornately decorated columns, cascading staircases, and teetering belltower beckon you inside to gawk at the gold-plated ceilings and masterfully-hewn marble altar. Another emblem of Leccese Baroque style is the nearby Basilica di Santa Croce, which took local stonecutters over 100 years to complete (zoom in on the entablature detailing and you’ll soon understand why it took so long). A six-minute saunter down the vanilla-tinged tangle of streets will take you to Il Castello di Carlo V, a Norman castle (later enlarged, rather extensively, by King Charles V of Spain) and military stronghold against the persistent Ottoman attacks throughout the 16th century. Its muscular ramparts and stout bastions no longer rebuff hostile visitors, instead inviting the creatively-inclined inside for music recitals, art exhibitions, and to explore its papier-mâché museum.
If that’s enough culture for one day (well, more like several), Puglia’s coastline is lapped by the Adriatic and Ionian seas, stretching all the way to Italy’s southernmost tip. Lecce lies around seven kilometres inland, but there’s a Roman-straight road to the Adriatic town of San Cataldo which promises soft, sandy beaches and a seafront nature reserve. Keep driving south and you’ll hit Torre dell’Orso (a bottle-green bay backed by powdery dines and pine forests), and further still to reach Laghi Alimini – a pair of crystal-clear lakes encircled by Mediterranean woodland.































