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The Sanubari

End-of-the-Earth hideout

We don't talk about Sumba

If you’ve got a case of the ‘been there, done thats’, let us reassure you that the world’s not done with surprising you. Take the Sanubari, which at first glance looks like the blueprint for a luxurious beach resort with its thatched villas and the requisite endless white sands and stained-glass waters. However, this resort sits in a vast swathe of off-the-radar isle Sumba, Indonesia’s ace up its sleeve, where locals still live in village clusters, practising ancient Marupu religious rites and making ikat weavings, ceramics and carvings (which you’ll find in your villa). You’ll see herds of buffalo wander along the sands, chat with fishermen breaking for beers, ‘swim’ with horses and be truly transported on a genuine-article getaway. 

Planes

Tambolaka Airport is a two-hour drive from the hotel; you can easily connect from Denpasar (AKA Ngurah Rai) in Bali, around a 90-minute flight. Staff can arrange one-way airport transfers for IDR1,000,000; if you're staying for four nights or more before 15 January 2026, transfers are included with your room rate.

Automobiles

Drop and floppers won’t need wheels of any kind, but if you’re more explorative, note that Sumba’s infrastructure lags a little behind the growing interest in visiting it, so driving can be tricky (and not recommended after dark), although it is possible to hire a car or a motorbike. You can sidestep any navigational stress by hiring a driver for the day (most wait around the airport, but you’ll be whisked off when you arrive, so ask hotel staff to help arrange); be sure to be clear about what you’re hoping to see and do. The hotel has not one but three secure car parks (one by the restaurant, two by the villas).

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Hermits have never had it so good. Now that Sumba’s an unleashed secret it may be as busy as Bali a few years down the line, but for now the island’s roughshod remoteness is a rare asset. Local communities have had little interference, meaning life – and the Marupu religon’s rituals and ceremonies, such as megalithic burials – carry on as they have for centuries. The Sanubari’s owners have built goodwill with the neighbouring kampungs (Sumbanese for ‘village’), so a limited number of lucky guests can visit to learn more about the locals and buy handicrafts to take home. Of course, your main source of entertainment is the beach: 2.5 kilometres of gleaming white sand and ‘are you kidding me?’ glowy blue-green waters. You could simply drop down on a towel (classic), play beach games, tennis and volleyball or snorkel using the hotel’s free-to-hire gear (part of the beach has a vibrant reef and curious turtles). Embark on a cruise aboard the hotel boat; go fishing; paddle boarding; or surfing on the three rideable breaks along Sanubari’s shorefront (there are more a short bike ride away). Or take it to the next level with kite-surfing. The hotel has some very special horse-riding experiences, saddling up for sunrise or set, or – our pick – ‘swimming’ with them, riding bareback through the waves. Inland lies dense jungle, rice paddies that look like you could reach out and stroke them, and coconut groves: great for hiking and motorbiking and a spot of mountaineering. Ignore TLC’s advice and spend a day-trip chasing waterfalls – you’ll head off on a 45-minute ride (with a guide if you wish) which takes you through the Wanukaka Valley to the Lapopu cascades in Manupeu Tanah Daru National Park and the 75-metre-tall Matayangu falls in Waimanu village.

The Sanubari

Endereço

Dasang Beach, Harona Kala, Laboya Barat, West Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara