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Ocio Villas by Casa Chameleon

Decadent jungle joints

All playa, no work

Imagine that the Jungle Book’s Mowgli grew up, cashed out some crypto at the right time, married a supermodel, then felt a nostalgic pang… that Mowgli might live in one of Ocio Villas’ two lavish residences. These Costa Rican mansions – with private pools, a helipad and many decks from which to admire your kingdom – are tucked away in the sort of rampant jungle-to-coast-scenery you’d need several viewmaster reels to contain. And, they balance ‘pura vida’ joys (nature’s wonders, time to share and socialise, peaceful seclusion), with unabashed ‘look at my riches’ luxury. An altogether more elegant and decadent way to get reacquainted with the wild.

Planes

If you’re flying into San José, the hotel’s around a five-hour drive from Juan Santamaria International (so it's best to try to land before 5pm local time). This includes the ferry crossing over the Gulf of Nicoya – which, with its aquamarine waters and potential whale sightings, is no hardship. Or you can fly into Daniel Oduber International in Liberia, around a four-hour drive away. The journeys might be long but they’ll give you a preview of the riotous greenery to come. If, however, you want to skip to the good part, hop on a flight from San José to ‘local’ airport Tambor, a more reasonable hour’s drive away; from here the hotel can pick you up for $90 one-way (for up to four).

Automobiles

Buses don’t really run through the jungle that frequently – or indeed at all – so a car will be useful for reaching the remoter parts of the peninsula. Main roads are fairly easy to navigate here, but some of the less-established routes get muddy in winter and cracked and dry in summer, so you’ll need to drive cautiously. And keep some cash on hand for toll roads. There’s free private parking onsite.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Sleepy fishing hamlet Mal País’ story could have followed that of many places too pretty to remain incognito. Surfers came for the waves and beachy ‘pura vida’, then the celebs took notice and turned tracts into eye-popping estates, then luxury hotels moved in, and…well, it stops there, because eco-tourism hero Costa Rica doesn’t give up its beauty spots so easily. Boats still bring in their hauls daily, locals tend to whizz about by bike or quad, beaches don’t care who you are (and stay fairly off-radar), and Ticos still barrel down mud roads to ride the breaks that crash onto shore. And these two villas are so thoroughly concealed in jungle, that only your helipad shatters the illusion that time has passed since prehistory. And so, you’ll swoop through the hundreds of trees that form the canopy on a zipline like a troop of howler monkeys, stalk through the trees on an ATV with the stealth of the local pumas, swim with a megapod of spinner dolphins in Drake’s Bay off the Pacific coast (whales pass this way too, come late autumn), before succumbing to the ways of the sloth, taking leisurely drinks and lingering dinners on your deck. Those with steely nerves can ride the bucking Rio Negro on a raft, bungee jump in the Cabo Blanco nature reserve – looking out for tree-dwelling parrots, capuchins, lizards and snakes as they descend – or look straight into the bubbling eyes of the region’s volcanoes (Arenal, Tenorio, Miravelles, Rincón de la Vieja) in a helicopter. While gentler souls can trot along on a sunset horse ride, bathe in fairy-glen waterfalls and hop from playa to playa. Surfers, suit up and head to Santa Teresa for world-class boarding or tuition for the less-confident.

Ocio Villas by Casa Chameleon

Address

Puntarenas Province, Santa Teresa, 60111