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The Bull & Last

Haute hostelry

Hanging by the Heath

You’re not short of storied locals at the Bull & Last, a much-loved Hampstead inn close to the Heath. There’s the slave daughter turned heiress of nearby Kenwood House, father of electricity Michael Faraday, and tragic murderess Ruth Ellis, locals who’ve been paid tribute in the inn’s beautifully conceived rooms. And, there are more characters downstairs where food rises well above the ‘gastro’ suffix, London-based brews are poured, and oenophiles agonise over the wine list.

Planes

The pub is just an hour’s drive from three of London’s major airports: Heathrow (via the M25 and A40), Luton (via the M1) and Stansted (via the M11). Gatwick is the furthest, a two-hour drive away.

Trains

There are excellent public-transport links nearby, with Gospel Oak overground (your link to Hackney to the east and the likes of Kensington and Richmond to the west), and both Kentish Town and Tufnell Park tube stations, served by the Northern Line, on which you can easily ride into central London. If you take the Heathrow Express into town, you’ll arrive at Paddington; from there, take the Circle Line to King’s Cross and the Northern Line to Kentish Town. The Gatwick Express pulls in at Victoria, from which you can get the Tube straight up to Euston then switch to the Northern.

Automobiles

The pub’s outside the Congestion Charge zone, but there’s little need for a car with all the overground and Tube links you have close by – if you hire one (which you can from any airport), you’ll likely spend your time cursing at the M25 or playing ‘spot the parking space’.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Historically, the east side of Hampstead Heath has been thought of as slightly more déclassé in comparison to the Dickensian whimsy (quite literally – he loved a pint in the Spaniards Inn) of Hampstead Village in the west. But, nowadays anyone within strolling distance of the Heath is living a Londoners’ dream. You see, our love for this – the largest of the capital’s green patches – has softened our stiff upper lips for centuries; whether we’re escaping plagues old and new on the Vale of Heath, splashing about in its bathing ponds in the rain (if you visit in summer be sure to book a ticket well in advance), stomping through its pin-drop-peaceful meadows or gazing out at the group portrait of London’s landmarks from atop the city’s most spectacular viewpoint: Parliament Hill. The Heath offers a pastoral fantasy less than five miles from Soho. And, the Bull & Last happens to be just across the street from it. A simple stroll through may prove fertile ground for inspiration. Countless creatives have chased the muse here: the frilly-bloused bunch of the 18th-century Kit Kat Club (Alexander Pope, John Keats, Percy Shelley et al) gathered close by; it allegedly sparked the idea for CS Lewis’s Narnia; and Karl Marx enjoyed flaunting his rakish revolutionary rep as he picknicked with his family there. The hotel can hook you up with a stylish Brompton bike if you’d like to explore on two wheels, and they have pétanque kits and tennis rackets to hand (courts need to be booked in advance). Or familiarise yourself with some of the characters the Bull’s rooms are named after at Kenwood House, the exceedingly grand home of the Earl of Mansfield and Dido Belle. Uphill from the pub is Highgate Cemetery; its famous interments will fascinate (from Henry Moore to Douglas Adams, from Christina Rosetti to Jeremy Beadle), but it’s also an immensely peaceful place to while away an afternoon. Marx’s head appears in a lot of selfies, but our favourite is artist Patrick Caulfield’s grave, which simply, eloquently has the word ‘dead’ carved into it. Waterlow Park is another lovely picnicking spot and in Golders Hill Park wild deer roam. Keats’ surprisingly modest house lies on the other side of the Heath on a road now named for the poet, and it’s been turned into a museum about his short, somewhat turbulent life. Hampstead Village is a cascade of designer and indie boutiques; we especially love rummaging in the Antique & Craft Emporium for vintage treasures. And to the south, the greenery and toytown villages give way to Camden and Kentish Town’s grungy gig scene. The O2 Forum, the Underworld, Electric Ballroom and Roundhouse all have legendary status, but it’s worth checking out smaller spaces such as folky Green Note or former Winehouse haunt the Dublin Castle. 

The Bull & Last

住所

168 Highgate Rd, Highgate, London, England NW5 1QS, United Kingdom