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Aldea Kuká

Thatch made in heaven

Hammock-strewn Isla Holbox

The way Mexico weaves artistry into the everyday is celebrated wholeheartedly at eco-friendly, boutique beachfront stay Aldea Kuká. The owners’ passion for and support of local makers is evident in the smallest details: say, the staff’s Kahlo-esque embroidered uniforms, the earthenware vases and hessian lampshades that make the wood-and-bamboo-built suites so characterful, and the eye-catching art provided by a native maker-in-residence each month. This, combined with Isla Holbox’s intoxicating beauty and laidback, take-it-easy nature makes for a fun and authentic stay. Honoured is the country’s love of a mezcal-sloshed knees-up, too: the owner throws a killer Day of the Dead bash.

Planes

You’ll need to fly into Cancún; then to reach the island take the two-hour drive north to the port of Chiquila and catch the ferry to Holbox. The hotel’s around a 10-minute drive from the ferry port. Or, the faster and more luxurious way to reach the island (with a hefty price tag, mind), is to hire a private plane for the 30-minute journey from Cancún airport. The hotel can arrange this for you for MXN40,000 one-way.

Automobiles

The island is car-free and residents zip around in golf buggies, so leave your wheels behind.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Isla Holbox was allegedly founded by pirates, and much like them you’ve come across some rare bounty in Aldea Kuká, so you may wish to kick back and just take it all in. The natural beach is down a small path and has fine crushed-coral sand lapped by waters with this region’s luminous emerald tinge (thanks to a colourful clash between the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea). Waters are calm and there’s an array of perches to choose from – we rather like the nest-shaped ones you can curl up in. After a day spent not doing very much, the spa will help you to find reserves of relaxation you didn’t know you had and sunset yoga will gently limber you up. Upping the adrenaline ante – a bit – are bikes to borrow and stand-up paddleboards.

Isla Holbox’s name translates to ‘black-hole island’, but this description was largely used to turn away nosy tourists, we’re sure. And we can’t say we blame the residents for wanting to keep it to themselves. The island’s part of the Yum Balam Nature Reserve, an Attenborough-doc-worthy patchwork of mangrove-laced wetlands, clear-enough-to-see-your-own-flippers sea and run-free green spaces which house jaguars, crocodiles, tapirs, manatees, pelicans and flamingos and – its headline act – whale sharks. These polka-dotted gentle giants can be spotted happily munching on plankton offshore from June to September; the hotel can arrange a boat out so you can swim alongside them. Otherwise, you can conduct your own safari by golf cart, the speediest mode of transportation on this car-free isle. 

Another watery wonder is bioluminescence, whose eerie glow can be seen brightest from Playa Punta Cocos, just along the shore, around the same time the whale sharks arrive. Or keep it classic with a sunset boat ride. The hotel can also cast you adrift at Cabo Catoche island, but they won’t leave you to your own devices – lobster ceviche and freshly cracked coconuts will be available and the water’s rich with sea turtles – for snorkelling and admiring purposes, just to be clear. And, if all that natural wonder and utter indulgence has you feeling overwhelmed, Yalahau lagoon has hot springs with rumoured healing properties.

Aldea Kuká

Address

Calle Paseo Kuka 5, Zona 001, Holbox, Quintana Roo, 77310