
The Bath Arms at Longleat
Hearth and soul
A prowl from Longleat
The Bath Arms at Longleat offers the kind of reassuring, ‘get your battery back up to 100 per cent’ break that you leave feeling truly buoyed. They achieve this by selecting the friendliest staff from the area, ensuring the pub inspires warm fellowship between locals and minibreakers, and by plying you with top worldly wines and local brews with a good head on them. And, if you’ve had one too many Butcombes or slugs of the hotel’s own Horning Ale, they’ll spark you back up with a free Bloody Mary come breakfast. Its antiquity has bestowed plenty of character, with the odd creaky floorboard, wonkily shaped room and heritage trees in the garden; but rooms with a mod-rustic look and elevated country dining gently modernise it. Plus, Longleat Safari Park’s spectacular beasts are so close by – you can even faintly hear them from some rooms.
Planes
London Heathrow is the closest of the capital’s hubs at just a two-hour drive away – and a very pleasant one at that, with the option to detour to the North Wessex Downs or the South Downs along the way for a breather. Alternatively, land at Bristol Airport, just an hour’s drive away, where flights arrive direct from major European cities.
Trains
Frome railway station is a 15-minute drive away. You can catch a train all the way there from London Waterloo (a three-hour journey) or Bristol Temple Meads (an hour’s journey).
Automobiles
Yes, you’ll need a car – safari-park tours are somewhat scarier without one, and you wouldn’t want to miss out. Having a set of wheels will also make it easier to reach speck-on-the-map villages, remote farms and one-for-the-road country pubs. If arriving from London, the drive will take around two-and-a-half hours via the M4, M25, M3 and A303. Take the second exit from the roundabout on the A36, then exit for Longleat; drive along the A362 until you turn off for Horningsham, turn right onto Hollybush Road and the hotel will be on your right. To drive from Bristol, head south on the A4 and and the A36 via Bath; turn off onto the A36 then B3092, turn at the stone cottage onto Forest Lane and you’ll see a sign for the Bath Arms – the drive should take an hour. There’s usually good availability for on-street parking.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Eat, drink, be merry pretty much sums up ways to pass the time here. For a more fulsome list of west country pursuits, chat to the staff who are very approachable and are brimming with recommendations. First follow the rumbling purrs to Longleat Safari Park – it’s more placid entrance lets you wind through Capability Brown’s exquisite Pleasure Walk, through elegant greenery with glimpses of the house and lakes beyond. Longleat House is a prime example of High Elizabethan architecture – still the residence of the 8th Marquess of Bath – and various guided tours cover the goings on among former butlers and housekeepers, whiffs of scandal and a climb to the rooftop. Top it off by puzzling your way through the hedge maze. And, over Christmas, be sure to catch the Land of Light festival, when the house is bathed in vivid hues. The safari park is a menagerie from far-flung climes, including lions, zebras, giraffes, red pandas, marmosets, crocodiles and a further taxonomy of wild beasties. On the calmer side of things is Horningsham Village – its name may be a derivative of an ancient word for ‘bastard’, but it shows off a sleepy yet charming slice of country life; and the people are really quite pleasant. From here, country walks wend off into more rural parts, say, the Heaven’s Gate loop, a not-too-strenuous three-kilometre ramble. A little further south, what Stourhead Gardens lacks in prides, it makes up for in Palladian follies and tranquil picnicking spots. For more contemporary culture head to Hauser & Wirth’s gallery on Durslade Farm, which frames Somerset’s art scene in a modern light. Nearby Frome (Froom to the locals) has a decidedly hippie-ish side, largely thanks to its proximity to Glastonbury, whose mega festival drew in counter-culturals over the years that never left. Secure your tickets well in advance and hit all the stages (or as many as you can muster) in June when musical legends roll up, but otherwise there’s flower-arranging classes at Bramble & Wild, stocking up on handicrafts in the Frome Independent on the first Sunday of each month, or catching a gig at indie venue Cheese and Grain, where the Frome Flea Market is also held every Wednesday. And, with one of England’s greatest Georgian cities less than an hour’s drive away, you’d be remiss not to stop by the Roman Baths to take the waters, go on the free In the Footsteps of Jane Austen walking tour and stop for a not-a-cake, not-a-scone – not, technically, a bun – Sally Lunn ‘bunn’ at her eponymous eating house.














