
L'Ovella Negra
Beauty sheep
Changeable Incles Valley
Andorran mountain lodge L’Ovella Negra (‘the black sheep’) has a somewhat ironic name, because all guests who secure one of just four rooms here are made to feel like they belong. Schedules are fluid, staff bend to your whims and the wood-lined former farmhouse with a large floating fireplace is a spot you’re welcome to curl up in. Materials such as wood, wool, concrete and iron make for cosily contrasted interiors; meals eschew faff for strong simple flavours; and the inconstant landscape of the Incles Valley makes for scenic summer hikes and superlative snow days. Plus, intimate gatherings – barbecues, live music sessions – only make you feel more like part of the family.
Planes
Toulouse-Blagnac Airport is the closest, a two-and-a-half-hour drive from the hotel; flights arrive here from major cities around Europe. Or you could fly into Spain’s Josep Tarradellas Barcelona-El Prat Airport, which is just under three hours away from the hotel by car. The hotel can arrange transfers from both for €150 each way.
Trains
If you’re travelling around Europe by train or fancy a more scenic route, the Gare d'Andorre-L'Hospitalet is just a 35-minute drive from the lodge. TER Occitanie runs trains direct from Toulouse Matabiau Station (a two-and-a-half-hour journey), and SNCF’s Intercités de Nuit service runs overnight from Paris (from 10pm to 9am).
Automobiles
From Barcelona, follow the C-16 route north, then the N-20 route in southern France and the CG-2 route in Andorra. From Toulouse, follow the A66, A61 and N20 routes, then change to the CG-2 in Andorra. Follow the signs to El Tarter village, follow the sharp curve turn after Soldeu and you’ll find the valley entrance. In summer, drive through and you’ll find the hotel at the end (there’s free parking onsite); in winter (December through to April) leave your vehicle in the car park near Soldeu ski resort and wait for the snowcat.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Limber up, because L’Ovella Negra is the jump-off point for some soul-stirring hikes: up and down mountains, around lakes, through easy-on-the-eye valleys and to ancient refuges. Hotel staff can point you to a nearby waterfall that’s not too hard a hike for the uninitiated, but there are various configurations of routes around Incles Valley. Try the Camí de l'Obac d'Incles route, which loops around the valley; elevate your route in the Pyrenees, go deep into Ransol or Montaup valleys, or circumnavigate Estany de Juclà, Andorra’s largest lake. Come winter, walking routes can be impeded by ice and snow, so instead use your legs for snowshoeing or skiing at Grandvalira resort, a 10-minute drive away. Prisca’s insider tip is to hit the piste from Grau Roig, a 15-minute drive up the mountain. Snowmobiles can be hired too if your legs get tired, and staff can arrange heli-skiing. Cosmopolitan Soldeu village has lively eateries and the Sport Hotel Hermitage’s five-storey spa, plus a pretty Romanesque church. And, capital Andorra la Vella (a 30-minute drive away) has buildings dating back to the 12th century, plus upmarket duty-free shops.
Back at the hotel, there’s little light pollution in the valley – the owner even chose not to use too many outdoor lights to ensure the stay looked like a home – so there’s a wide sprinkling of stars to gaze at here.


















