
Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge
Earn your stripes
Nepal’s wild west
A far cry from the crowds in Kathmandu, Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge is on the border of Bardiya National Park, a swathe of wildlife-rich jungle in far-western Nepal. Spread over 928 square kilometres, Bardiya occupies a wild pocket of the Terai, a lush, subtropical region with a thriving ecosystem. Rustic and remote, Karnali is off the beaten track, but the embracing welcome and soulful safaris more than make up for the travel time. Spend your days spotting animals from vintage Land Rovers, on walking safaris (a rare treat in Asia) or cruising for crocodiles on the Karnali River. In the evenings, toast the sunset from the fire pit before settling down to dinners that are chock-full of organic goodness from the hotel’s farm.
Planes
The closest airport is Nepalgunj, 85 kilometres from the hotel. International arrivals should touch down at Kathmandu, then hop on a domestic service to Nepalgunj, a flight that lasts around an hour. The drive from Nepalgunj takes roughly an hour and 45 minutes; private transfers in a four-wheel drive are NPR5,500 a person (but rates come down as the number of passengers goes up).
Automobiles
Most guests don’t do any driving of their own. Self-drive rental cars are virtually non-existent in Nepal, and UK licence holders need an International Driving Permit (IDP) before they can get behind the wheel. You won’t need a car once you arrive, as you’ll be in a vintage, open-top Land Rover Defender while out on safari.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Karnali has always been a springboard to explore the national park, and is quite happy playing second fiddle to Nature’s grand designs. That’s not to say it isn’t a delightful place to hang out, however. The evenings are particularly atmospheric, when guests gather around the fire pit for drinks, trading stories about the day’s sightings. With no TVs or technological trappings, the lodge is also the perfect place to step back from the pace of digital life, tuning into the sound and rhythm of the jungle.
Worlds away from frenetic Kathmandu, Bardiya National Park is a swathe of unspoiled jungle home to some of Nepal’s most impressive wildlife, including Asian elephants, rhinos, leopards and crocodiles. The undisputed king of the jungle, however, is the mighty Bengal tiger, a bucket-list sighting for any safari goer. Adding to the experience is the fact that the lodge uses vintage, open-top Land Rover Defenders for its safaris, which look particularly fetching when caught on black-and-white film. Nepal is one of the only places in Asia that allows walking safaris in its national parks, making this a rare opportunity to experience face-to-face encounters (in the presence of a seasoned naturalist, of course). Alternatively, take to the water on a river safari, cruising along in a hand-carved boat. Gharial and mugger crocodiles are the lords of Karnali River, and can usually be spotted basking on sunny banks. The guides can also take you on bird-watching trips (Nepal is home to more than 800 species) and visits to local villages, where you’ll experience the Tharu way of life and see some of Tiger Tops’ initiatives in action.
















