Casa das Penhas Douradas
Thunderbirds worthy
Lunar landscapes
Natural highs abound at cosy Casa das Penhas Douradas, perched in the rugged mountains of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park at an altitude of 1,500 metres. Snug, retro interiors riff on a Seventies-chalet theme, complementing the bold architecture; whatever the weather’s up to, you’ll never feel the chill, thanks to warm and heartfelt hospitality from the team. Bonus points go to the clever chef – who writes edible love letters to the region, and never neglects vegetarians – and the artful use of burel: a traditional local fabric, given a new lease of life by the hotel’s owners. Outside, a natural wonderland awaits…
Facilities
Rooms
18, including one suite.
Checkout
Noon; earliest check-in, 4pm. Both are flexible, subject to availability.
More Details
The generous rates usually include buffet breakfast, an afternoon spread, fruit and fresh water in rooms, use of the sauna, Turkish baths and Jacuzzi, parking, guided walks, a tour of the Burel Factory and use of the hotel’s bicycles, sleds and snowshoes.
Also
Public and communal areas are wheelchair accessible and most rooms are on the ground floor, making them suitable for guests with reduced mobility.
Hotel Closed
Casa das Penhas Douradas doesn’t accept guests on 24 or 25 December, 29–31 December, 21–25 February and 30 March–13 April.
Free Internet Access
Laundry
Pool
On-Site Restaurant
Room Service
Spa
At the Hotel
Mini ‘ski museum’ with vintage skis and ski manuals; fire pits and alfresco lounge areas; multimedia room; free WiFi throughout. In rooms: TV, ability to play DVDs, iPod dock, Santal 33 bath products, workspace, air conditioning, minibar, free bottled water, kettle, tea- and coffee-making facilities, blackout curtain.
Our Favourite Rooms
We’re sweet on the suite, thanks to its partly glass ceiling and the day-bed designed for stargazing beneath it. Tucked away in the eaves, the suite also boasts a dreamy bathroom.
Poolside
Survey the craggy rocks and spindly trees of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park from large picture windows by the spa’s sparkling indoor swimming pool. Watching snowflakes fall outside adds a certain frisson to steamy sauna sessions and dips in the heated pool.
Spa
The spa has several treatment rooms, a Vichy shower and a relaxation room, where calming herbal teas and infusions are served in silence. Treatments riff on the hotel’s surroundings: be massaged with birch-wood sticks or try an aromatherapy massage featuring birch bark, rosemary leaves and juniper berries. As if all that wasn’t soporifically seductive enough, there’s also a heated indoor pool with panoramic views, a hot tub and a sauna. Nature-lovers can request alfresco treatments in the ravishing grounds.
Packing Tips
Bring a retro ski-suit and salopettes in winter; something with less potential for perspiration in summer.
Also
The hotel's mid-century pieces include contributions from Scandi designers such as Hans Jørgensen Wegner and Bruno Mathsson. Casa das Penhas Douradas has good genes, too: its stunning sister stay, Casa de São Lourenço, is a seven-minute drive away.
Children
Little Smiths of all ages are welcome. With a day’s notice, babysitting can be arranged (€15 an hour).
Gallery
Food & Drink
Top Table
The usual rules apply: sit outside when it’s clement, inside when it’s not. This sociable hotel favours communal dining – nab a seat on one of the long benches.
Dress Code
Chalet chic: snug woolly layers; silvery shades of ice and pearl.
Hotel Restaurant
Sample Serra flavours at the cosy restaurant, whose tempting menu has been devised with help from top Portuguese chef Luís Baena. What you’ll eat depends on the seasons, with rotating highlights including: trout, chestnut and pumpkin, gorse, juniper, goat’s cheese and sheep’s cheese, native herbs and wild mushrooms picked from the Alto Mondego woods. Dinner is taken seriously, kicking off with a flute of champagne or a cocktail and nibbles, followed by soup, a main dish with accompaniments, a cheese buffet, a selection of desserts and fresh fruit, coffee and liqueurs. (There are great options for vegetarians and mini Smiths.) The hotel can also arrange waiter-toting picnics for you to enjoy amid the splendour of the Serra da Estrela Natural Park.
Last Orders
Breakfast is served in the restaurant between 8.30am and 11am; enjoy dinner until 10pm.
Room Service
Order items from the restaurant menu to your room around the clock: the selection spans soup, sandwiches, cheese and nuts, smoked salmon, toast, quiche, cakes, fruit and so on.
Planes
Fly into Porto airport, a two-hour drive away, or make the three-hour drive from Lisbon. Both airports are served by a multitude of airlines, including Ryanair, EasyJet, Vueling and Tap Air Portugal.
Trains
Covilhã's train station is a 40-minute drive away, with services connecting to Guarda, Castelo Branco, Portalegre and other destinations.
Automobiles
It’s certainly worth bringing wheels: the surroundings make for stunning drives and there’s plenty to explore here. Even getting to the hotel by car is an adventure, whether you come via the panoramic EN-232 or the scenic Forest Road. The hotel has plenty of parking space, right by its entrance.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Start by doing very little: treat yourselves to spa treatments, naps and several feasts at the restaurant. If and when you’re feeling a little more lively, explore the majestic Serra da Estrela National Park, perhaps with a picnic and an obliging waiter in tow. The hotel can arrange an array of outdoorsy pursuits, such as kayaking and canoeing, wild swimming in glass-like mountain lakes and guided nature walks. Go for an unforgettable dip in Poço do Inferno: a scenic waterfall that’s located in the steep gorge of Ribeira de Leadres, about 10 kilometers away from Manteigas. This spot is particularly winsome in spring.
In honour of the hotel’s burel-adorned interiors, go on a guided tour of the Burel Factory at R. de Benguela in Manteigas. The owners’ decision to kit out their two hotels with burel (a stiff fabric made from local mountain wool) reignited the dying factory and helped provide local employment. Burel has since gone on to complete impressive interiors projects, including kitting out Microsoft’s office in Lisbon.
Staff can arrange a variety of guided hikes in the Park for keen walkers: a four-hour trip around the Penhas Douradas and its viewpoints; a six-hour expedition around the Alto and the Sumo of the Mondego river; or a four-hour trip around the Fragões das Penhas Douradas, perhaps. With help from the hotel, you can unlock some of the region’s secret charms, such as sleepy slate villages, mysterious border castles and characterful historic villages.
Earn or Redeem Points with World of Hyatt
This Mr & Mrs Smith hotel participates in the World of Hyatt loyalty program. As a member, you can earn and redeem points and enjoy exclusive benefits for qualifying nights. .
