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Castelbrac

The good life aquatic

Wind in your sails

Luxury hotel Castelbrac, a Belle Époque aristocratic pile by Brittany’s coast, is a storybook stay with terraces and crenellated towers carved into a cliff face, so each room has breath-taking views of Prieuré Bay. Designers Sandra Benhamou and Léonie Alma Mason have kept the interior’s art-deco details, adding bold prints and a sea-inspired colour palette. Seafood is excellent here, and the porthole-lit bar gives new meaning to the term drink like a fish – although you should sip and savour the signature Breizh Mojitos – it was formerly an aquarium.

Planes

Arrive at Dinard Airport within an hour from the UK; Ryanair flies direct from Stansted, Aurigny from Gatwick or London City. The airport is a 15-minute drive from the hotel, and for a €30 one-way trip, staff will zip you to the hotel in a Tesla. There are no direct flights from the US or major destinations in Asia and Australia, so the best option is to stopover in London.

Trains

There are direct trains to the SNCF Station in Saint-Malo from Paris Gare de Lyon or Montparnasse (around a three-hour trip); if arriving direct from St Pancras International on the Eurostar, the trip is just over six hours. From there, you can request a Tesla transfer along the scenic route (€30 for a 20-minute, one-way trip), or add a dash of Venetian-style drama to your trip and zoom across the bay on the hotel’s yacht.

Automobiles

The drive from London, via the ferry over the Channel, is a feasible seven-and-a-half hours; however, it’s easier to hire a car at the airport. Dinard is easily explored on foot, but a set of wheels allows you to see more of the coast. Valet parking is €24 a day.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Brittany is cooler than France’s sultry south, so sunbathing hours can be limited, but the Emerald Coast’s beauty is still striking on overcast days. Pack your beach bags for plage d’Ecluse (painted by Picasso in Baigneuses sur la Plage) and shelter in the smattering of traditional blue-and-white-striped tents on the shore, if there’s a sudden chill. The large municipal pool, set on a platform above the sands, has impressive coastal views. To the west, Saint-Enogat Beach is sheltered and secluded, dotted with the palms that thrive in Brittany’s microclimate. Dinard – once home to Lawrence of Arabia, and Winston Churchill’s favourite holiday spot – is dinky but filled with surprises; its grand, Belle Époque villas with turrets and high-vaulted roofs look like a Harry Potter set; a cache of galleries, casinos and souvenir shops line its hortensia-adorned streets and a gloriously Gallic market is held four days a week, along Rue Paul-Valéry with stalls selling cheeses, meats, calvados and antique maritime tomes, all set to accordion music. Director Alfred Hitchcock allegedly modelled the iconic Psycho house on one of Dinard’s villas (the resemblance is striking); his bird-swarmed statue stands in a square by the beach, and the annual Dinard British Film Festival is held in his honour, through September and October. Book an excursion on the hotel’s beautiful hand-built yacht to drop anchor by some of the wartime-occupied Channel Islands – the remarkably peaceful fishing areas were once the site of World War II’s most vicious bombardments; for a historic day trip, Omaha Beach and the D-Day landing points are a two-hour drive north. Back at the hotel, there’s little to do but swim, book a spa treatment or sit and sip a cocktail on the terrace, but loved-up twosomes can link arms and take a twilight stroll along the Clair de Lune promenade. In winter, the belvedere roof becomes an ice rink, and mulled wine and warm pastries are sold.

Castelbrac

Address

17 Avenue George V, 35800, Dinard, Brittany, France