Río Hermoso

Style

Pine-clad palace

Setting

Waterfront wilderness

A river runs through it at luxury lodge Rio Hermoso hotel, just outside San Martin de los Andes, a Patagonian playground of fir-studded mountains, startled stags and bottomless, bottle-blue lakes. Interiors of richly-hued local stones and timbers, striking tribal artefacts and all-white, super-size soft furnishings don’t even try to compete with the environmental pole dance outside.

Facilities

Rooms

Seven, including six suites.

Checkout

11am, but flexible for 25 per cent of the daily rate. Earliest check-in, 3pm.

More Details

Rates include breakfast and tax.

Also

The beautiful river is the star of the show. Swim in its piercingly clear waters in summer, listen to its deafening roar in snow-swollen winter, and watch the trout literally jump upstream at spawning time in spring. The long, low, bleached-wood benches and outdoor sofas of the wide veranda provide the perfect spot for water worship.

Free Internet Access

Laundry

On-Site Restaurant

Room Service

At the Hotel

Library of DVDs and books, gardens and free WiFi throughout. In rooms: TV with DVD player, safe and Organ & Co bath products.

Our Favourite Rooms

All rooms feature white-linened, empire-sized beds big enough to catch a fish in. We liked the three upstairs rooms off the library-like landing full of old Spanish medical and legal textbooks: No.3’s daffodil yellow armchair commands the best river view in a cosy eaves setting, and lime-lightened No.1’s terrace proffers the perfect spot for a warming or cooling glass of wine, depending on the season.

Packing Tips

A hip flask, a pocket-warmer and your favourite beanie if coming to ski.

Also

The common areas are subtly perfumed with mood-enhancing eucalypt and sandlewood scents; the property also stocks local merino wool designers, Von and Dungen.

Children

Kids of all ages are welcome but the hotel is better suited to couples - best leave the children at home.

Gallery

Food & Drink

Top Table

When it’s warm enough, ask for a table and umbrella out in the garden by the river.

Dress Code

Designer fleece in winter; plaid shirts and comfy Merrells all year round.

Hotel Restaurant

Buenos Aires-trained chef Julian brings a touch of French flair to the menu. Meals are taken in one half of the expansive, glass-walled living room, the white linen tablecloths and red- and orange-striped cushioned chairs dappled by the light off the water. Afternoon tea involves test tubes full of loose leaf teas – go traditional with ceylons and darjeelings or off the map with black toffee, puer or lemon flower. Breakfast is a feast of brownies, breads and cereals, with eggs on demand; make sure you try the dangerously creamy huevos revueltos.

Hotel Bar

The housegirls whip up a potent caipirinha behind the little elevated bar in the middle of the big entertaining room downstairs. Bar stools encourage languid, pidgin-Spanish conversations; or choose one of the boardgames and settle in for thrashing.

Last Orders

Everyone is rosy-cheeked and reflective by 10pm, so don’t expect to eat too late.

Room Service

Apart from the dead-of-night munchies, most things can be brought to the room at any time.

Planes

Flights in to San Martin with Aerolineas Argentinas (www.aerolineas.com.ar) are infrequent but the most convenient. For daily options with other local carriers, including LAN Chile (www.lan.com), Bariloche is the best alternative, but it's a two- to three-hour transfer, depending if the national park shortcut is snowed in or not.

Automobiles

Most of the big-brand car rental agencies are available at Bariloche; the range is more restricted at San Martin de los Andes. This is rugged territory; don’t attempt any offroad driving without a good car. Horses, cows and the odd stag are common fellow road-users.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

If you believe the stereotype, Argentines are famously proud of their looks – the après-ski scene at Río Hermoso is wall-to-wall reflector glasswear and Prada ski jackets. Come down to base camp a little early to snag one of the white leather-look sofas dragged out onto the snow at the bar at the far end of the lift area. It mixes the best tracks and avoids some of the attitude of the more crowded, watched-and-be-watched joints closer to the end of the slopes.

Earn or Redeem Points with World of Hyatt

This Mr & Mrs Smith hotel participates in the World of Hyatt loyalty program. As a member, you can earn and redeem points and enjoy exclusive benefits for qualifying nights. .