Samode Haveli
Refined Raj’s palace
Think pink
A fabled family home in the Indian city of Jaipur, Samode Haveli hotel is an ornate oasis in the heart of the hectic old town, with glorious grounds, a huge pool and tinkling fountains. Hundreds of candles light the way by night, but with glittering mosaics and opulent archways at every turn they (almost) needn’t have bothered. The rooms vary in style and size, but you can be sure of some serious antiques to admire no matter where you stay. Beyond your room, there are courtyards, alcoves and terraces to explore, and don’t miss a peek at the indoor dining room and its portrait-lined walls – there’s not much danger of that, though, with food this good.
Food & Drink
Top Table
Nab one of the candlelit tables around the fountain outside, or admire the family portraits and chandeliers lining the walls indoors.
Dress Code
Last days of the Raj.
Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant is on an elevated terrace with a central fountain and hundreds of candles lit up every night. It serves some of the best Indian food in Jaipur: we loved the slow-cooked lamb, crisp parathas straight out of the tandoor and the paneer with spinach curry. If you’re in the mood for a little less spice, there are salads and pastas on the menu as well. An American breakfast is laid on each morning, with a few Indian favourites thrown in. There’s also a dining room inside for hotter days and colder winter nights.
Hotel Bar
There’s an outdoor bar tucked into some alcoves by the pool, which means that cocktails can be delivered straight to your sunlounger – though the seating under the ornate arches is equally inviting.
Last Orders
Breakfast is served between 7am and 10pm; lunch hours are noon to 3pm; and dinner is from 7pm until 10.30pm. The poolside bar is open from 11am until 7pm.
Room Service
Simple dishes such as pasta and grilled chicken can be served in-room on request.
