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Paradero Todos Santos

Outback Brutalism

Baja's cactus-studded desert

A cactus and agave-strewn botanical amphitheatre is the focal point at Paradero Todos Santos, a community-minded, eco-centric desert resort offering a distinctly different flavour of escapism to what is typically found in Baja California Sur. Its Brutalist architecture blends into the arid desert, and plays with light and shadow in ever more intriguing ways that enhance the cleverly landscaped setting. Guests are encouraged to connect with nature; there’s no room service and no televisions, but there are plentiful nooks for stargazing, an infinity lap pool, a free roster of daily experiences that show off the region’s assets (including rare butterflies and other wildlife) and a farm-to-table restaurant notable for bringing people together.      

Planes

Baja’s two largest international airports are equidistant, and the hotel offers transfers for US$191 (tax inclusive) each way, which take a little over an hour. San José del Cabo Airport, to the south, is Baja’s busiest and best-connected airport, with routes stretching all over the US and Canada. La Paz International, to the north, is typically a little quieter and more expensive.

Trains

Travellers already in the United States may be tempted to use the Amtrak network to reach San Diego, from where the city’s Tijuana Trolley has a line running to the Mexican border crossing, but there is no rail network in Baja California itself.

Automobiles

Paradero is some 780 miles south of the US border, and connected by the surprisingly smooth Highway 1. It is relatively simple to bring an American-registered vehicle into Baja California and a road trip south is a standout adventure, but allow a few days to make the journey. For those arriving by plane, rental cars are plentiful in Los Cabos and La Paz, and the hotel offers free secure parking. Note that toll roads are required to reach Paradero and they are cash only (Pesos or USD).

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

In an arid desert amid fields of tomatillos and poblanos, with the Sierra La Laguna mountain range as backdrop and the salty winds blowing in from the Pacific nearby, there’s loads to discover here in Baja California Sur. The quintessence of Paradero is to share the region and its people’s culture with guests, and the roster of experiences are so intrinsic to a stay that the majority are included in your room rate. As home to some of the first Spanish missions in Baja California, poetic Todos Santos is a dazzling colour wheel of adobe and colonial buildings, full of murals and galleries, and is best discovered on Paradero’s Art Walk. Gastronomes may prefer the Taco Tour, which samples a laundry list of the region’s best tacos, and guests can meet the local chefs who are reinventing these traditional recipes with energising new flavours. Dusty trails sinuously trace the surrounding farming land, deserts, hidden subtropical oases, coastal regions and mountains, and these are best explored by guided bike rides or hikes, as either a morning kick-start or sunset sundowner. Budding green thumbs can take a two-hour sustainable-farming course from the La Mesa farming community who supply the hotel’s fresh produce, and there are gardening courses too, where guests are taught the basics of ecologically responsible garden care and design. Beachgoers can decamp to nearby Playa Las Palmas for the day and take a surf lesson; more experienced surfers may want to ride the stronger swell at Playa Los Cerritos and sip cerveza in the adjacent laidback town of El Pescadero. Outside of Paradero’s experiences, Todos Santos is reputedly home to the Hotel California, the mysterious subject of the 1977 hit album by the Eagles. Don Henley remains resolute that the Hotel California is nothing more than a non-existent metaphor for the myth of the American Dream, but the building in Todos Santos does bear a striking similarity to the one described in the lyrics – you be the judge. For a hedonistic night out, there’s the infamous bars and clubs of Cabo San Lucas, not that Mrs Smith knows anything about those… Be sure to arrange a pre-booked rendezvous with Paradero’s driver before the first round of tequila is ordered.

Paradero Todos Santos

Address

La Mesa Km 59 +3100, Carretera Todos Santos - Cabo San Lucas, El Pescadero Bcs, 23300