
Palazzo delle Pietre
Style set in stone
Steeped in the Centro Storico
Before Carlo Mazzi and his family showed up, 15th-century Palazzo delle Pietre, in central-as-can-be Rome, was a victim of heinous style crimes: frescos wallpapered over, painted beams behind false ceilings… The Mazzi’s played both archaeologists and future-proofers, restoring porticos, epigraphs, cosmatesque tiles and more, and crafting eight apartments, using both Carlo’s masonry collection dating back to antiquity – for which the stay is named – and furnishings from Rome’s modern makers. They’re a joyful past-present melee of statuary, friezes, marbles with psychedelic striations and colourful statement pieces, along with a gracious concierge, hammam, and private cultural club with the aim of sharing and safeguarding Roman culture; and, we surmise, ensuring not one Corinthian column, gilded cherub or Latin fragment gets again persecuted by poor taste.
Planes
Both Ciampino and Leonardo Da Vinci airports are about 45 minutes’ drive from the palazzo; the former has connections all over Europe, while the latter better serves international arrivals. The concierge is on call if you need transfers (around €150 each way).
Trains
Roma Termini – from which you can easily connect to Florence, Naples or Pisa, with happy-cry-inducing views throughout all journeys – is just a 20-minute drive from the hotel, and transfers are around €95 each way. The closest Metro stop is Barberini about a 20-minute walk away.
Automobiles
In some ways, driving in Rome is actually very much like the car-chase scene in Spectre, in that it’s a bit of a stressful affair, and you may well find yourself in a barely car-sized cobbled alley tempted to nose the vehicle you’re wedged behind out of the way. Although – alongside many other violations – Bond would likely have also got himself a fine for breaching the ZTL (Limited Traffic Zone). Unless you have the swagger of a special agent and the patience of the Pope, we’d leave the driving. But, if you do brave the streets, there are a few charged car parks close to the hotel. Besides, Rome surprises you more when you’re on foot.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
The cobbled Via delle Coppelle on which the hotel sits was named for the cheap cups of wine you could purchase from vendors along it. These days you can’t exactly swig your way about like a drunk-on-power emperor, but there’s plenty to match that buzz close by, because all the pomp and circumstance of the Eternal City is concentrated in this neighbourhood. Go west and you’ll hit the gloriously OTT San Luigi dei Francesi church, whose ceiling has been thoroughly Midas-touched, and casually hanging on the walls are no less than three Caravaggio masterworks (Saint Matthew and the Angel, The Martyrdom of Saint Matthew and The Calling of Saint Matthew). A little further along is the Church of Sant’Agostino, where you’ll find yet more Caravaggios crowding the walls with works by Raphael, Sansovino and other masters. Go down a bit and you’ll see 16th-century Palazzo Giustiniani, home to the President of the Senate of the Republic, and a sight grander than most government buildings, frescoed and gilded to the hilt within. And then, a few steps away, you’ll come out into Piazza Navona, formerly emperor Domitian’s chariot-racing stadium in the ADs, hence its oval shape, now a lively enclave with Bernini’s famed Fountain of Rivers at its heart. It’s alright, but it does pale into insignificance when you take a 10-minute walk east and find yourself in the fray surrounding the Trevi Fountain – remember, it’s one coin if you want to return, two if you want to return and fall in love, and three if you want to do all that and get married. We can’t promise any of that, but the around €1.5 million that gets tossed in each year goes to homeless charity Caritas Roma, so at least someone’s guaranteed something good from it. And, you’re also a bag swish from Via Campo Marzio and Via Condotti – two of the city’s most well-heeled and dressed streets, lined with luxury-label boutiques (and some indies). If you feel a little overwhelmed ask the hotel to hire you a personal shopper for the day. The latter Via culminates in the Spanish Steps, the Villa Medici and the Villa Borghese encased in its spectacularly landscaped gardens with all the fussy parterre, follies and serene fountains you could ask for. And to the south, the Colosseum and Forum complex are a 30-minute walk away. It’s worth taking a more leisurely walk by the Tiber down to Trastevere, a bohemian ‘hood with a renowned vintage market (Mercato della Città Ecosolidale), paintings and photography in the Museo di Roma, 1930s arthouse cinema Sacher Film and Tiber Island where screenings are held from June to September as part of the Isola del Cinema festival. But, you needn’t go far for cultural fodder – as part of your stay you have access to the Frammenti (‘fragment’) Club, where luminaries from the science, literature and art worlds hold classes and talks a few times a month.



















