Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Antwerp’s name either means ‘at the wharf’; or ‘to throw a hand’ derived from a legend about a giant named Antigoon who took hands as a toll for crossing the Scheldt River, until one day a young soldier called Brabo cut the giant’s hand off and saved the day (guess which story we prefer)… There’s even a statue commemorating the legend surrounded by step-gabled houses in the Grote Markt, so it must be true. This is actually Belgium’s second city, but it comes first in all the ways that count, as a crucible of fashion-designer legends, rabble of highly contrasted architectural styles, peddler of the sparkliest jewels, nightlife impresario and home of 16th-century Renaissance painter Pieter Paul Rubens – he’s kind of a big deal around here and largely the reason why Antwerp is one of Flanders’ five cities of art. Get acquainted at his former home, an as-it-was palazetto with masterpieces by yours truly and other luminaries, and the Royal Museum of Fine Art, whose collection fast-forwards to the 20th century. Once he’s Rube-d off on you, head to the Museum Mayer van den Bergh to see works by Antwerp’s other painterly sons (Pieter Brueghel the Elder, Jan Mabuse), and then photography museum FOMU and Galerie Gabriel Van de Weghe (4 Mechelsesteenweg), to see which Antwerpanaars and Antwerpses are currently beating a path to creative glory. Then, try not to bankrupt yourself on a serious shopping mission. Onsite and close to the hotel you’ll find very high-end jewellers and watch-makers, such as Carigi, Van Esser, Karolin Van Loon and Salima Thakker; and fine horologists at Heritage and Tensen. For cutting-edge wearables, start at Graanmarkt 13, a longstanding champion of indie brands, where each floor tells a different story. Pick up artfully ‘schlubby’ styles by Sofie d’Hoore and cashmere maxi-dresses (ideal for WFH-ers), KASSL Edition trenches and Pierre Culot ceramics. Then scope out the lewks at Vier skatewear (Raf Simon’s favourite), Arte for sleek tailoring, Renaissance for the very on-trend, and gorgeous Dries Van Noten store Modepaleis, a restored 19th-century department store. Or use Mode Museum’s guided walks as your stylist. For furnishings to make a room pop, try Espoo and St Vincents, both curated to a tee. By this point you’ll likely be broke, but you can enjoy Antwerp’s architecture for free. Roam about to see the spectacular stained glasses of Central Station, the Gothic cathedral, the curious old-new mix of Zaha Hadid’s Port House, the Lego-like Mas and the Baroque splendour of the City Hall, and get your Insta snap on Vlaeykensgang, which is lined with 16th-century townhouses. Then go underground for a surprisingly fascinating tour of De Ruien, Antwerp’s historic sewer system (wellies provided). When you come back into the light, enjoy the fresh air at Stadspark, wandering picturesque Rivierenhof, where gigs are held throughout the year, marvelling at Zurenborg’s bombastic houses and papping the panoramic skyline from the Left Bank of the Scheldt. And then Rubens pops up again in August with a namesake market where citizens dress in traditional costume and you could find a piece of art, street eats and stranger finds – a suit of armour perhaps? A more modern market and rooftop farm can be found at communal hub PAKT. Back at the hotel, there’s plenty to do with the enormous spa, shops, whisky tasting and gardens, and Granada Gallery which exhibits fossils, gems, meteorites and other treasures from the hotel’s own mines and sites.
