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Nirjhara

Bower power

Waterfall quartet

Ringed by palms and splashing waterfalls, Nirjhara is a back-to-nature resort in a lesser-trodden pocket of Bali’s south-west coast. The greenery-girdled hotel is minutes from volcanic beaches, rolling countryside and the island of Tanah Lot, a Hindu temple with some of the best sunsets in Bali. In tune with the lush vegetation on all sides, the suites and villas are dressed in timber, rattan and stone that was sourced from across the archipelago. At restaurant Ambu, regional specialities and flavour-filled fusion dishes are served in a wooden pavilion overlooking the largest of four waterfalls. At the spa, enjoy a Balinese massage or join an open-air meditation session in a thatched shala. Every guest gets unlimited use of bikes and surfboards during their stay, and the concierge can arrange hikes, ceramic workshops and cooking lessons with a local chef.

Planes

Ngurah Rai International Airport is the best place to touch down; it’s about a 50-minute drive from here to the hotel. You can fly directly from most of Australia’s larger airports, or from Amsterdam if you’re coming from the Continent. From the UK, you’ll need to take a connecting flight; popular stopovers include Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Dubai and Singapore.

Automobiles

Most visitors get by without doing any driving themselves, in part because the roads aren’t always what they’re used to. Hiring a car with a driver is cheap and easy, but if you do plan on getting behind the wheel, there’s valet parking at the hotel.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Banish traveller's fatigue by joining one of the regular yoga or meditation sessions, held in a wooden shala with a sculptural roof and soundtracked by the chirps of bright-liveried birds in the canopy overhead.

After a hearty Balinese breakfast, head out to explore the countryside on your bicycle (every guest gets one) or pedal down to the beach, where you can make use of your surfboard. If you’re in need of a little guidance, the concierge can arrange lessons with a qualified instructor. (Veterans, on the other hand, should set sights on Kedungu, a local favourite with a buzzy scene.) The sunsets on this side of the island are said to be the best in Bali, so aim to be installed in your spot of choice (drink in hand, natch) in good time for the show to begin. There’s also a cinema that holds weekly screenings of blockbusters and silver-screen classics.

Like getting your hands dirty? As the concierge to book you in for a ceramics workshop at Gaya, a stylish studio on the fringes of Ubud. It’s well worth a visit even if you don’t plan on taking a class, but be warned – temptation will strike when you see the shapely creations on sale in the showroom. Culinary wizards will be relish the expert-led cooking class, which starts with a visit to a local market, where you’ll learn to select the best the produce and spices according to scent, texture and taste. Armed with your natural bounty, you’ll then decamp to the kitchen to cook up a Balinese storm. Natural highs can be sought on the slopes of Mount Batur, an active volcano that makes for soul-lifting hikes. If you set off early, you’ll climb above the carpet of low-lying cloud that lingers over the canopy in the morning, making the sunrise seem all the more impressive. At last light, there’s nowhere better to be than Tanah Lot, a Hindu temple built on tiny island just off the shore. It’s the most famous sunset-watching spot in Bali – and the hotel can make it even better by arranging the journey in a vintage VW convertible. Alternatively, book the sunrise bike tour, which heads off at 6am.

Nirjhara

Address

Jl. Nirjhara, Banjar Kedungu, Belalang Kediri, Tabanan, Bali, 82121