TheVagar Country House
Barefoot condessa
Scenic sylvan serra
Savour life in the slow lane at adults-only TheVagar Country House, a boutique back-to-nature retreat set across hundreds of bucolic acres in central Portugal. Here, a pulse-raising hike, a mountain-backdropped massage and an aromatic bath infused with foraged herbs make up the morning grind. On the afternoon agenda, a picnic and a paddle in a forest-shaded stream – just make sure to squeeze in a glass of organic red round the fire pit by end of play. Switch on silent mode and start drafting that out of office reply – this is do not disturb done right.
Facilities
Rooms
Six suites.
Checkout
Noon. Check-in is at 3pm, but both are flexible, subject to availability.
More Details
Rates at TheVagar Country House include an à la carte breakfast of locally sourced treats, served in your suite, the cosy main house or out in the ivy-strung garden.
Also
The Simplicity Suite on the ground floor is wheelchair accessible (and comes with optional in-room dining), as are the communal living area, garden and pool. Unfortunately, the bath house, hot tub, ice baths and contemplation house are not.
Free Internet Access
Pool
Room Service
Spa
At the Hotel
Bath house, hot tub, ice baths, fire pit, chapel, and free WiFi throughout. In rooms: air-conditioning, radio, Delta coffee, tea-making kit, Smeg kettle, minibar, free bottled water, and Damana bath products.
Our Favourite Rooms
The Hope Suite has our hearts, with its cosy fireplace and view-blessed bath tub.
Poolside
The infinity pool draws entirely from nearby mountain springs – and if that doesn’t have you feeling fully in tune with Mother Nature, the panoramic valley views should do the trick.
Spa
In the glass-walled bath house and chapel-like contemplation house, aromatic baths are laced with wild lavender and rosemary and massages make use of local, organic olive oil, all with ahh-worthy valley views. There are also forest-fringed ice baths and an alfresco hot tub fed by the mountain spring, plus meditation, yoga and wellness classes.
Packing Tips
In the spirit of TheVagar’s deliberately TV-free suites, ditch as much tech as you can and finally slash that daily screen-time count.
Also
If an elopement is on the cards, we’d say TheVagar’s forest-fringed chapel is a much more romantic bet than Vegas.
Children
TheVagar is for over-18s only.
Gallery
Food & Drink
Top Table
The garden is your go-to for lazy, sun-warmed lunches. For supper with a spectacular view, your suite’s private balcony will take some beating.
Dress Code
Low-key and all-natural suits the casual set-up at TheVagar, wherever you choose to dine.
Hotel Restaurant
There’s no formal restaurant, but you’ll stay well fuelled with a ready supply of homemade, sustainably sourced fare whenever you fancy. Breakfast might be crusty bread with organic jam and a foraged fruit smoothie; for lunch, a sun-sweetened tomato salad. Cakes are baked daily for afternoon tea, and if you stay in for supper you can look forward to cockle-warming soups and platters piled with cheese and cured meats from local farms.
Hotel Bar
The hotel follows the same go-with-the-flow approach here, too. Crack open an ice-cold cerveja on a hill-cresting hike, or cosy up for a convivial night around the fire pit with a bottle from one of the region’s celebrated wineries.
Last Orders
There are no set dining hours – when hunger strikes, just say the word and something tasty can be rustled up. That said, you’ll want to show your face for afternoon tea at 5 o’clock, and you’ll need to order breakfast the night before.
Room Service
Breakfast can be brought to your suite from 8.00am to 11am, supper from 7pm to 8.30pm.
Planes
It’s around a two and a half hours’ drive from Porto Airport, and three hours by road from Lisbon. The hotel can arrange transfers from either airport; price on enquiry.
Trains
Breeze into Belmonte Station direct from Lisbon in under four hours. From there, it’s just a few minutes’ drive – the hotel can arrange transfers for €25 each way.
Automobiles
A car will come in handy for exploring the surrounding cluster of historic villages, and there’s free private parking at the hotel.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
Choose your own adventure through the Serra de Esperança – hit the hiking trails, head out with a picnic, join a wildlife-watching 4x4 tour or get in touch with nature (literally) on a barefoot sensory trail. Otherwise, you can soak in your surroundings with an alfresco ice bath, a stint in the hot tub, or an aromatherapy bath.
For a further-afield expedition, set out to explore the soaring peaks of the Serra da Estrela. Or check out the region’s forest-fringed river beaches – the ones in Loriga are especially grotto-like. You’re in the heart of the Historic Villages of Portugal, a group of mountain-clinging communities recognised for their rich cultural clout. A cobbled-lane stroll gives a sense of the history here, but for a deeper dive, Caria’s centuries-old Casa da Torre, now an archaeological museum, makes a fine starting point.
Earn or Redeem Points with World of Hyatt
This Mr & Mrs Smith hotel participates in the World of Hyatt loyalty program. As a member, you can earn and redeem points and enjoy exclusive benefits for qualifying nights. .
