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Palazzo Belvedere

Wellspring of wellness

Tuscany’s thermal dynamo

Healing springs run deep in the Tuscan town of Montecatini Terme, where visitors have taken the waters for centuries. Palazzo Belvedere, a very grand hotel packed with iconic Italian furnishings and replete with manicured greenery also overflows with holistic healthfulness. Its enormous spa’s treatments are themed around the elements (massages in a swaying hammock for air, sauna-set dry scrubs for fire, mud packs for earth, wave-like kneading for water…), alongside sleep rituals, art and dance therapies amid other unique uplifts, and trips to 18th-century thermal complex Tettuccio. But abundant natural wines, a pantry to pick at, and farm-fresh dining might also account for the cheery glow you’ll leave here with, too.

Planes

Florence’s Amerigo Vespucci Airport is a 30-minute drive away, and Pisa International is an hour by car; transfers can be arranged from both on request.

Trains

The closest train station is Montecatini Centro, a 15-minute drive away, and an hour’s train ride from Florence.

Automobiles

Usually Tuscany is best discovered by car, but if you’re dedicating yourself to some heavy self-care here then you’ll spend most of your time in the spa or thermal baths. But should you wish to roam, there’s a carpark with 20 spaces onsite (€20 a night, for each car) and two electric-vehicle-charging stations. And the hotel can help with rental, with the likes of Lamborghinis, Maseratis and Mercs on call if you want a flashier ride.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

It’s easy to immerse yourself in local life in the picturesque Tuscan town Montecatini Terme, considering the place sprung up around the healing hot springs that still draw wellness-seekers to this day. Make like a delicate, lovelorn Victorian heroine, and get thee to the Tettuccio thermal complex, a set of grand 18th-century structures inspired by Roman baths, built by architect Gaspero Maria Paoletti (who also re-styled parts of the Uffizi), and surrounded by elegantly trim parkland. Then sip and soak your way to rude health from four mineral-rich sources, before admiring the painted panels by artist Basilico Cascella. Palazzo Belvedere’s enormous spa is becoming as much of a lure as this holistic hotspot, but the hotel has a well-rounded approach to Tuscan uplifting. There are tastings of local natural wines and olive oil, and botanical workshops with resident garden-tender Mrs Lidia, focusing on wild herbs and aromatic plants, turning them into dyes, perfumes and edibles, held in the garden cellar or pantry. Partake in yoga, Pilates and meditation in the light-filled studio; dance and paint your way to equilibrium; play tennis at the La Torretta club close by; or hit the bike room to borrow electric, racing, mountain and city cycles, plus any kit you’ll need (€25 for a half day, €50 for a full day). Staff can arrange a two-wheeled itinerary for you (some lasting a few days), with journeys out to Pizzorne and the Lucchesi hills, the Pistoia Mountains, and Montalbano. A rich seam of Florentine culture runs through the area too: the hotel has a room dedicated to the furnishings and work of architect and designer Giovanni Michelucci, and a day-trip where you can privately tour his former homes Villa Fontallerta and Villa Roseto (now home to the Michelucci Foundation). And the Montecatini Contemporary Art museum name-checks Joan Miró and Claes Oldenburg. Ask staff to pack you a picnic for the funicular up to mediaeval village Montecatini Alto, where there’s a scenic cobbled square dedicated to poet Giuseppe Giusti. And you can play through the Tuscan hills on the Montecatini Golf course, but you might prefer to explore them with the verve of a vintage Italian movie star, at the wheel of a Ferrari, Lamborghini or Maserati; the hotel can arrange hire.

Palazzo Belvedere

Address

10 Viale Fedele Fedeli, Montecatini Terme, Tuscany, 51016