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Castle Elvira

Sleep-in beauty

Enchanted Puglian estate

Castle Elvira: the manor, the myth, the legend… Topped with crenellated turrets and surrounded by enchanted forest (and groves), this storybook 20th-century Puglian stay is rooted in tragic origins (as its folklore goes), but steered towards a bright future by Renaissance creative Harvey B-Brown and his partner. The decor certainly isn’t retiring – a mix of restored frescoes and floral-motif floor tiles, statement-yelling pieces (tufted velvet or circular bedframes, stone bath tubs, and Brown’s own artistic embellishments) – and nor are guests, who might be disco-ing in the pool, crafting their own portraiture, joining singalongs around the grand piano or calling on the mobile cocktail cart. Elvira is a beauty that only sleeps when she really needs to.

Planes

Salento (AKA Brindisi) Airport, well connected across Europe, is the closest, around a 40-minute drive away from the hotel; transfers can be arranged from €70 one-way, for up to eight guests. Or you could fly into equally route-blessed Bari Airport, a two-hour drive away; transfers from here are from €195 each way.

Trains

Squinzano train station is just a 10-minute drive away from the castle. It’s a stop on the east-coast route that runs tip-to-heel of the boot from Milan in the north to Lecce in the south, with stops at Bari and Brindisi.

Automobiles

Sì, you’ll need a car – this is the territory of snapshot-ready satellite villages; that little trattoria you stumbled upon when you took a wrong turn, and will never forget; vineyards and groves and patchwork farmland that repeat like a cartoon backdrop… Do it right. The hotel has a free car park onsite (and valet parking on request).

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Castle Elvira’s crenellated turrets emerge from bursts of palms, cypress and the other enthusiastic verdure coating her country estate, interrupted only by a snaking driveway leading to St Elia Ridge, known locally as the ‘vale of health’ thanks to its fresh air. You can’t help to feel a little more pep in your step here, and you can use this to jog past olive trees and ancient smallholdings, wander the wild Italian woodlands, or borrow a rickshaw pedal-bike for zipping through citrus groves – the hotel can pack you a delicious picnic of Pugliese dishes and cakes on request (available from noon to 4pm; must be booked in the morning). And when you’re not in awe of Italy’s skill for sculpting a landscape, try pasta-making classes (where you’ll roll, shape and learn your flours); baking lessons; wine-tasting masterclasses, where you can divine your primitivo from your verdeca; and private cinema screenings, with classic and blockbuster movies, cartoons and TV shows, plus popcorn and snacks. Co-owner Harvey B-Brown is a hands-on host, too – the award-winning artist and filmmaker holds drawing, painting and life-drawing classes. And, for those serious about mining their creative talent, there’s the Adored & Adorned portrait-making experience, where you’ll work alongside B-Brown and his collaborator David Scheinmann, taking photographs and collecting mementoes which will then be embellished with paints, ink, digital finishes and collage to make spectacular self portraiture. For the less hands-on, simply admire works by B-Brown and Scheinmann, Adolfo Arenas Alonso and Michal Cole placed throughout the property. You could also tinkle the ivories on the sitting room’s 1902 Beckstein grand piano – guests have been known to gather round it of an eve – book a massage or join in whatever pool party is taking place; but Lecce, with its Baroque basilicas, cathedrals and churches makes an easy day-trip at just a 20-minute drive away.

Castle Elvira

Address

Via Andrano, Trepuzzi, Apulia, 73019