Les Hautes Mers
Tide-turning hideaway
We will rock Yeu
L'Île d'Yeu is a small yet magical island off France’s Atlantic coast. It has the ruggedness of the Scottish highlands with its rocky edges and untamed moors, the charm of the Greek isles in its picturesque port towns, and a little of the Riviera in its hidden coves lapped by aquamarine waters. And now, the Domaines de Fontenille group brings boutique retreat Les Hautes Mers to its shore. It has the distinction of being the only oceanfront hotel here and of having a fresher, more modern look than the competition. And with slick service, adventuring courtesy of Mother Nature, and fresh-out-the-net seafood, you’ll want to ride this particular wave to the high seas.
Facilities
Rooms
17, including three suites.
Checkout
Noon, but flexible, subject to availability. Earliest check-in, 4pm.
More Details
Rates don’t usually include the buffet breakfast (€30 an adult, free for kids under-12), but guests get a welcome gift from organic skincare brand L:A Bruket and a tasting of local delicacies chosen by the chef and minibar soft drinks.
Also
There’s one adapted room suitable for guests with mobility issues and most public areas are well spaced and have room for manoeuvring.
Hotel Closed
The hotel will be open from April to September in 2022 and 2023, then year-round come 2024.
Free Internet Access
Laundry
Pet Friendly
Pool
On-Site Restaurant
At the Hotel
Sea-facing terrace, garden, pétanque court, concierge, laundry service, free high-speed WiFi. In rooms: Flatscreen TV, minibar with free non-alcoholic drinks, coffee- and tea-making kit, air-conditioning and L:A Bruket bath products.
Our Favourite Rooms
We like the cut of the hotel’s jib. Rooms and suites are simple in style, painted in the colours of a captain’s uniform with a chic array of furnishings and plenty of light through large windows. Of the house rooms, those on the upper floor overlook the terraces on the ground floor, so for seclusion, go up in the world. And, three rooms are set apart from the main hotel – of these, the Junior Suite Terrace Ocean View takes first place for its sizeable furnished terrace and the best view in the house: a panoramic shot of the Atlantic from on high.
Poolside
Lope down the Roman steps into the large heated pool that’s sunk into the hotel’s gardens and you’ll have an unimpeded view of the ocean. It’s a mightily soothing spot, with a Jacuzzz at one end, and the wooden deck is lined with white loungers where you can waste time in the best of ways. Ask nicely and the staff will bring you a glass of wine to go with that.
Packing Tips
Bring activewear for both land and sea – there’s a lot of get up and go on the island. But don’t forget your downtime distractions too.
Also
The hotel takes its name from L'Île-d'Yeu’s motto: ‘light and shelter on the high seas’.
Children
Children are welcome. There are two family rooms and some take extra beds, and while the only distraction at the hotel is the pool, older kids will love being let loose on the island.
Gallery
Food & Drink
Top Table
Lovely as the hotel is, that’s not where you want to be looking – if you can see water, you’re doing it right.
Dress Code
Bust out the Breton stripes.
Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant overlooks Ker Châlon Bay, and watching the roiling waters of the Atlantic might give you a clue as to what you’ll be dining on. Fishing has been the life blood of the island for generations and so sea-to-plate was really the only way to go, forging strong ties with local suppliers and the community at large. Due to the fickle nature of the waters, it’s hard to nail down specific dishes – in the hotel staffs’ own words, it depends wholly on ‘what the sea will give us’, but you can be sure it’ll be fresh and flavourful, and cooked in various styles (grilled, fried, in silky sauces…). With some meat, because this is still France.
Hotel Bar
Wine here, wine there, wine everywhere… The hotel doesn’t have a dedicated bar space, so the world’s your drinkery, whether you want to sit and sip on your terrace, in the garden, by the pool or wherever your whim takes you.
Last Orders
The restaurant opens for breakfast from 7.30am to 11am, and then serves until 10.30pm.
Planes
Nantes is the closest airport; from there you’ll need to drive (or catch a bus to Port Fromentine, a drive of just under two hours), then hop on the 30-minute ferry to the island. The hotel can arrange transfers from the airport on request. The second closest is La Rochelle, a three-and-a-half-hour drive away, which serves a handful of city destinations in the UK, Switzerland, Luxembourg, Ireland, Belgium and Portugal. If you fly into Paris, the journey from Orly is around seven hours, slightly longer from Charles de Gaulle.
Trains
If you’re arriving via the Eurostar, it’s possible to get the TGV to Nantes in two-and-a-half hours, but you’ll still need to travel on to the port and cross on the ferry, so it’s a roundabout way of arriving.
Automobiles
There aren’t many roads on the island, and some won’t hold anything bigger than a quad bike. To stay environmentally sound, two wheels are better than four (and there’s not much ground to cover), but if you do take the pricier crossing over with your car, there’s gated free parking at the hotel, open all day with a video surveillance camera. It’s possible to hire a car at Port Joinville, but it’ll likely be an electric vehicle which better resembles an off-roader or slightly bulkier quad. In high season, the picturesque streets are busy with bikers, so it makes a car all the more impractical.
Worth Getting Out of Bed For
At a diminutive 40 square kilometres, L'Île d'Yeu could have a Napoleon complex, but rather it offers resplendent natural scenes, prehistoric relics, pockets of golden beach and many different ways to get your adrenaline pumping. A lot of character for such a small land mass. Start your day with a swim off Ker Châlon Beach, just a five-minute walk from the hotel, then decide if you’ll spend the day at sea or on land. If you choose the former, you could find yourself diving amid wrecked ships, fishing with the locals, sailing along the shore, kite surfing or kayaking through soaring rocky outcrops. Or you could hop local beaches for wild-swimming spots that are wildly beautiful. Hop over to the opposite coast to Belle Maison, an inlet presided over by the formidable Vieux-château, which has survived pirate invasions and the like over the years, and even made a cameo appearance in Tintin comic The Black Island. A little along the coast is peaceful Les Sabias, a slick of fine sand topped with fisherman’s huts. And then a smidge further south is Anse des Fontaines, between mossy, wildflower-strewn natural buttresses – a green-and-gold cove. Throughout the island you’ll see millennia-old Neolithic dolmen and menhirs, but another monolith that stands out is the pierre tremblante, a boulder that teeters tentatively on its edge, which you can find below Port de la Meule, worth visiting to watch boats bob by and to see the minimalist Notre Dame de Bonne Nouvelle chapel. Also of historic interest, and a good picnicking spot (the hotel will pack you one on request), is the Napoleonic La Citadelle Fort Pierre-Levée, which was also used to hold political prisoners as late as World War Two. But, the island’s most engaging sights weren’t built by man, and can be found along the hiking, biking and scooting routes that criss-cross the island. Most choose a two-wheeled method of transport here and it really is the easiest way to see the tucked-away corners. But you could speed things up with a spot of sand-yachting, an exhilarating – if curious-looking – beach-based sport, or by jumping on horseback. Then rove the craft ateliers and wine shops of Saint Sauveur, join a yoga or qigong session held on the sand, or take a sunset cruise before heading back to the hotel. And, there is a third option for exploring the island: by air. You can swoop over the scenery in a helicopter tour, or even book a flying lesson if you’re feeling bold.
Earn or Redeem Points with World of Hyatt
This Mr & Mrs Smith hotel participates in the World of Hyatt loyalty program. As a member, you can earn and redeem points and enjoy exclusive benefits for qualifying nights. .
