Paragon 700 Boutique Hotel & Spa

Style

History in full colour

Setting

Puglia's pearly queen

Palazzo Rosso, an 18th-century manor in fairy-tale city Ostuni, has had many past lives. It was once a convent, housed the science institute, police barracks and was once the residence of the city’s first mayor, who used its hallowed halls for meetings with insurrectionists. But, even with that lineage, its current guise as adults-only Paragon 700 Boutique Hotel & Spa might be its most exciting. Dynamic design and restoration duo Pascale and Ulrike have furnished suites with worldly antiques, reclaimed glorious frescoes and gently updated ancient spaces such as the vaults and water cistern with a laudable restaurant and spa for your own restorative needs. Alongside its incredible cache of art, wine and statement furnishings, it also has the city’s largest garden and one and only pool. Updated with reverence to the past, its owners have given it new life for many years to come.

Facilities

Rooms

15, including six suites.

Checkout

11am. Earliest check-in, 3pm.

More Details

Rates usually include a gourmet à la carte breakfast (eggs any-way, teas, juices, breads, garden picks, yoghurts, cold cuts, pancakes and more). For extra, you can add beech-smoked salmon, omelettes and eggs Benny.

Also

Two rooms at Paragon 700 may meet your needs if you have limited mobility, but they’re not adapted; instead, they're generously sized and have huge showers. Public areas, aside from some sections of garden, are accessible too, and there’s a lift at the hotel.

Hotel Closed

The hotel closes annually throughout January.

Free Internet Access

Laundry

On-Site Restaurant

Room Service

Spa

At the Hotel

Private garden, orange grove, wine cellar, spa, small boutique, laundry service and free high-speed WiFi. In rooms: welcome gift, iPad Pro loaded with useful info, a minibar with free soft drinks, linen bathrobes and slippers and free Fragrart bath products. A TV can be added on request.

Our Favourite Rooms

Each of the hotel’s suites is wonderfully unique, with antiques from far-flung corners of the globe, huge bath tubs, high frescoed ceilings and the odd private terrace or decorative fireplace. However, the Paragon Suite is something of a standout for the huge stone arch behind the bed, the circular two-person tub sunk into the French parquet and artfully weathered historic features, plus its suntrap terrace. And, the Onyx Suite stands apart from the rest for its dramatic all-black interiors lit with elaborate mod chandeliers.

Poolside

This is the only pool in the town of Ostuni – and it’s a good ‘un, at 15 metres long, with leafy views, a sun-bleached deck topped with shaded loungers, and its own bar.

Spa

Once the Palazzo Rosso’s water cistern, set seven metres below ground, this space now serves as the hotel’s well-equipped spa, which is available for an additional cost. Body treatments promise revitalising, toning and detoxifying, and massages borrow from Ayurvedic and Mediterranean practice, including ‘shirodhara’, where water droplets rhythmically fall on your head. But we recommend a ritual that mixes up treatments with spells in the Turkish bath, Jacuzzi and chromotherapy shower, followed by a snooze in the Himalayan-salt-lined relaxation room. Out-on-the-town touches include mani-pedis, make-up sessions, waxing and hair appointments (on request). In summer, you can take your massage in a private leafy courtyard of the garden.

Packing Tips

Pack light if you have designs on the hotel’s, well, design. Occasionally the owners are willing to part with some of the one-off items and outré artworks they’ve found, so if something in your room catches your eye, all you need to do is ask. There are no TVs in rooms, so maybe slip in a few novels by fittingly Italian writers, such as Italo Calvino, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa and Umberto Eco.

Also

The hotel’s gardens cover 1,700sq m of lawns, herb and vegetable beds, and orange trees. Tables and chairs are set out so you can idle away the afternoon with wine, and from slabs of ancient stone to outré sculptures, there are intrigues to explore.

Children

Little ones and delicate antiques don’t mix, so only over-14s can stay here.

Gallery

Food & Drink

Top Table

Indoors, the oil mill turned table has an appealing Middle Ages made steampunk feel within the stone vaults, but on a sunny day the garden terrace beckons.

Dress Code

If there’s ever a time to pull out your vintage evening wear, this is it.

Hotel Restaurant

The provenance of ingredients in hotel restaurant 700 is as exceptional as you’d expect for a menu that gives shout outs to beloved nonnas and extols the virtues of rustic Apulian cuisine. They’re sourced in season from local fishermen and farms, or as near as the hotel’s kitchen garden. But this isn’t quite meals like grandma used to make; the best of local technique and flavour is put into a more modern context to create three- and six-course feasts with the likes of courgette millefeuille and tagliatella with sea urchins.

Hotel Bar

Bar 700 is quite striking, with its 8.5-metre counter lined with vintage tin plating from Argentina and, behind it, centuries-old majolica tiles from the palazzo’s past, plus a monkey statue standing guard. Comfy in soft sofas, guests can work their way through creative and classic cocktails and excellent local wines (tastings can be booked with the resident sommelier), and a fire warms people on chillier eves. Try the refreshing L’Oro della Puglia, where gin is topped up with white wine infused with lemon and olive leaves and gentian; or perhaps the unique savoury sipper (a more potent take on the Bloody Mary) Guacito, where tequila and mezcal are mixed with peperoncino chutney, yellow-tomato sauce and ricotta foam. Small sharing plates keep things civilised too and you can take your drinks poolside if you don’t fancy budging from your lounger. The bar is also well-known by locals who positively contribute towards the atmosphere.

Last Orders

Breakfast is served from 8am to 10.30am, lunch from 12.30pm to 3pm and dinner from 7pm to 10pm. Brunch runs from 11am to 3pm on selected Sundays in the summer season.

Room Service

You can order an in-room feast from 8.30am to 10pm.

Planes

Brindisi Airport is the closest to the hotel; it’s just a 30-minute drive away, but the journey has plenty of spectacle, largely following the coastal road and passing through the Torre Guaceto nature reserve. Alternatively, fly into Bari Karol Wojtyła Airport, an hour’s drive away – and, if you have time for ambling, pause at some of the pretty villages along the way. The hotel can arrange private transfers from both Brindisi and Bari from €120 each way.

Trains

While it is possible to interrail to Ostuni using Trenitalia services, routes from major cities are somewhat complicated and lengthy. If you do arrive by rail, take note that the station’s a 10-minute drive from the town, so you’ll need to hop on the shuttle or arrange a transfer with the hotel (€40 each way).

Automobiles

You’ll need a car for cruising through the countryside and heading out to the coast, and all the way down to the tip of the heel are must-do day-trip spots: say Lecce for its Baroque treasures or southernmost Santa Maria di Leuca, to see its natural stone arches and dazzling blue waters. You can hire wheels at either Bari or Brindisi airports and Mr & Mrs Smith guests get free parking at the hotel (usually €20 a day).

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

Ostuni is a time worn (in the best way) treasure in a region renowned for being wildly beautiful. Within, its gleaming white buildings and brush-with-the-past monuments make for a magical holiday setting, and beyond there’s the dazzling coastline, the sun-warmed Salento peninsula, waves of olive groves and multi-layered histories to be read through towns and villages with perfectly preserved monuments. But, before you discover all that, the hotel itself is a warren of wonders. The spa in the former water cistern has bubbling Jacuzzis, steam baths, colour-changing showers and healing Himalayan salt walls as well as titillating treatments. The hotel has not one, but two coups in having both the largest garden in Ostuni and the only pool, a large swimmable one at that. There’s 1,700sq m of greenery to nose around in, so we encourage you to waft through the orange groves and kitchen garden, admire the sculptures and garden gnomes and sit and sip a glass of local wine. There’s tour-worthy artwork hanging on the palazzo walls too, with pieces by Suzanne Lipsey, Adrian Boswell, Giuseppe Ciraci and Caio Gracco, plus photos and works by Ad’Opera. And, if the owners are around during your stay, they’ll happily go into the details of designing the palazzo. A courtyard in the garden can be booked privately for yoga and pilates sessions, massages or something craftier: a painting class or stone-carving using remnants from the pool’s excavation. There’s a small boutique onsite selling homewares (and a larger one at the owners’ P Beach club), plus accessories from the Made In Carcere programme where detainees at Lecce’s womens’ prison make pieces to sell. And in the old store room where once olive-oil was abundant, wines now line the walls and the hotel’s sommelier will take you on a tasting through the region’s primitivos, negroamaros and susumaniellos. And you can attend a cookery class with the talented chef so you have something to pair them with. Then, it’s time to see the surroundings in style – the hotel will happily charter its restored carabinieri boat turned private yacht for a jaunt on the Adriatic. The hotel can arrange horse riding, biking with trail maps and point out the area’s most beautiful natural beaches, such as the free to laze on Torre Gauceto. Those who want to know more about the region’s star products should take a trip to the Ostuni Olive Oil Cooperative, to pick up a bottle of liquid gold or learn how to make burrata. And, if you want to make a day of it, complete the trifecta of Puglia’s ‘white towns’ with trips to Cisternino and Martina Franca. And it’s well worth making the two-hour drive to Matera to see its mysterious sassi cave dwellings.

Earn or Redeem Points with World of Hyatt

This Mr & Mrs Smith hotel participates in the World of Hyatt loyalty program. As a member, you can earn and redeem points and enjoy exclusive benefits for qualifying nights. .