Planes

Porto’s airport is the closest, a two-hour drive away. You can also fly into Lisbon, a three-hour drive away. The hotel can organise transfers upon request.

Trains

The closest train station is Covilhã, an hour’s drive away. The hotel can arrange transfers upon request.

Automobiles

You’ll have cinematic views if you choose to take the corkscrew-shaped mountain roads up to the hotel. Brace yourself – the passes get nail-bitingly narrow as you ascend, so it’s best to drop your speed and just enjoy the spectacular scenes. Once you reach the hotel, there’s free parking on-site.

Worth Getting Out of Bed For

First, start with what’s on offer at the casa (we recommend sleeping with the curtains open, so you’ll awake to those awe-inspiring views) – begin the day with a daring dip in the heated outdoor pool to work up an appetite and then head to the restaurant for the hale and hearty breakfast spread, designed to give walkers maximum energy. Slather your homemade loaf with the famous Queijo da Serra, a sublimely gooey sheep’s cheese that’s local to this part of Portugal. While you’re eating, look up at the stars – the yellow, orange and black woollen stars that form a dramatic art installation above your head. The use of woollen accents, like the brightly-coloured bedspreads and chair covers, will make sense when you realise the hotel’s owners are Joao Tomás and Isabel Costa, who single-handedly revitalised burel production in the region. The industry, born from the mountains’ shepherding traditions, was in dire straits until these Lisbon-based entrepreneurs began commissioning blankets, throws and carpets for use in their hotels. During a visit to the burel factory in Manteigas, a mountain village in the valley, you’ll learn about artisanal wool production and shop for Burel Original products like pure woollen blankets, scarves, pillows and home decor.

Then, don your newly-purchased hoodie-backpack and lace up your hiking boots because it’s time to trek. There are 250 km of marked routes nearby that take in the stark beauty of the Zȇzere river valley: waterfalls, glacial lagoons (stash a swimsuit if you’re game for wild swimming), Dali-esque granite boulders, historic churches and tiny slate villages. If you prefer to tackle the terrain on two wheels, the hotel has a pair of mountain bikes to rent. In winter, the Serra da Estrela is the only region in Portugal to regularly see snow – rent the casa’s snowshoes and go walking in a winter wonderland. 

Back at the homestead, pour yourself a generous glass of port and gaze heavenwards for some superlative stargazing – these aren’t called the star mountains for nothing.